Stepping into Maison Kayser’s latest bakery installment across the street from the Time Warner Center in Columbus Circle is like being transported into a sweet Parisian adventure. The growing bakery empire, whose origins are French, have multiple New York locations, the latest of which offers authentic yet creative French desserts, breads and pastries. I am embarrassed to admit that I have become a regular at the bakery, trying something new every time I visit. So far, I have not been disappointed.

The first thing I ever tried at Maison Kayser was a breakfast creation called a plié au chocolat ($3.25). Besides offering traditional viennoiserie, French breakfast pastries that consist of puff pastry or bread dough like croissants and almond brioche, they also offer unique and equally delicious breakfast sweets such as pistachio-flavored financiers, pain aux raisins and my favorite plié au chocolat. The plié au chocolat is a delicious combination of croissant dough filled with pastry cream and dark chocolate. A thin layer of caramelized sugar on top creates a crisp crust that contrasts perfectly with the dense pastry cream chocolate mixture. This is a morning pastry worth getting up early for and is the perfect indulgence for a dreary winter morning. Another traditional viennoiserie pastry with a twist is the brioche nature ($2.50). Individually shaped in paper molds, this petit treat consists of buttery bread, cinnamon and apples. A crunchy streusel on top adds to the pastry’s textural contrast. The brioche nature is a small yet satisfying breakfast delicacy.

In addition to breakfast pastries, the bakery offers a variety of breads. Instead of the usual mass-produced slices of white bread, Maison Kayser offers up thick, crusty baguettes. The olive loaf ($5.00) is a real standout. With a crisp crust and chewy interior, the loaf is packed with whole, salty olives that add richness to the doughy innards. The saltiness from the dark olives melds with the soft and fluffy bread inside, creating a food harmony. Another amazing bread is the gruyere loaf ($5.00). Doughy white bread is swirled with gruyere cheese and enclosed in a thin crust that is topped with melted gruyere that has hardened to a crunchy crisp. It is like the best cheese cracker you have ever tasted on top of pillowy, pleasantly salty bread.

As if breakfast pastries and bread were not enough, Maison Kayser tops the bakery off with an array of refined French pastries, with a twist of course. The Paris brest ($4.50) is phenomenal. The crunchy pâté à choux is balanced with an ethereally light praline cream; the praline cream is sweet with nutty undertones attributed to ground hazelnuts. Nuts and confectioners’ sugar top a thin layer of pâté à choux that completes the pastry, transforming the traditional Paris brest shape from that of a circle to an éclair. However, if you go to Maison Kayser this winter, be sure to pick up an individual galette des rois or king cake when translated in English ($6.95). This traditional French treat is served during the Epiphany and Pre-Lent celebrations, like Mardi Gras. Eschewing the traditional almond frangipane filling, the bakery opts for a tart apple filling that is sandwiched between buttery layers of puff pastry. While the pastry’s inside is light and moist, the crust on the outside is caramelized and darkened to perfection. The buttery saltiness of the crust mingles with the tart apple filling and the sweet caramelized sugar topping that likens to that on a crème brûlée, to create a very special dessert. And the best part? This seasonal treat comes in individual sizes, so there is no need to share. Believe me, after tasting this you won’t want to. I highly recommend visiting the latest bakery in the Fordham community and sampling some of their indulgent sweets. With the dreary and bland grind of winter upon us, the treats at Maison Kayser are a much needed respite and adventure for our taste buds.

IF YOU GO

Maison Kayser
Rating: 4/5
$$ out of $$$$$$
Where: 1800 Broadway (Between Columbus Circle & 58th St) New York, NY 10019