Handbags have played a significant role in women’s wear throughout history, acting as practical mechanisms as well as tokens of gender and class. As silhouettes transformed in the late 1780s, large pockets subsequently fell out of fashion, and small handbags, referred to as “reticules,” rose in popularity.
During the Middle Ages, men often used cross-body bags for their functional benefits. However, as purses evolved into hand-held accessories throughout the centuries, they became ubiquitous among women, and the tension between their practicality and symbolism heightened in tandem. As the accessory developed alongside shifting notions of femininity, the purse’s self-contradictory nature became increasingly evident.
Handbags carry what their owners deem necessary to daily life, a choice that is both highly personal and profoundly affected by social and gendered expectations. Yet they are simultaneously a means of concealment, containing a woman’s most personal effects while obscuring them from the rest of the world.
Jane Birkin’s handbags were a testament to her interests and personality.
It is at the crux of this contradiction that bag charms come into play. To personalize the exterior of a purse, a practice referred to as “trinkifying,” is to counteract the inherent mystery of the handbag by publicly declaring one’s identity. In doing so, we can express ourselves while seeking connection through shared interests.
The trend has been attributed to the late British singer and actress Jane Birkin, who is widely regarded as one of the original “it-girls.” Birkin has had a considerable impact on fashion, but the eponymous Hermès bag is arguably her greatest contribution to the industry.
After a chance airplane encounter with Jean-Louis Dumas, a Hermès executive, Birkin inspired the production of the bag, and since its original release in 1984, the Birkin bag has become an elusive and expensive staple in the luxury market.
Despite the steep cost of these designer pieces, Birkin’s own bags were remarkably lived in. Bursting at the seams with her essentials and decorated with charms, beads and tags, Birkin’s handbags were a testament to her interests and personality. Through personalization, Birkin transgressed the secrecy of handbags, proudly putting herself on display for the world to see.
Birkin’s iconic behavior has inspired countless others to adopt this practice, and celebrities like Dua Lipa, Anne Hathaway and Gigi Hadid have been spotted with charm-embellished bags. The runway is no stranger to this trend either, with brands like Coach dangling miniature cars, oversized dice and New York City memorabilia from their designer bags in the Resort 2025 Collection. Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2024 show expressed similar motifs, with models brandishing handbags stuffed with stilettos and decorated with dainty chains and paracords.
While this trend is spreading rapidly throughout luxury and daily wear alike, it doesn’t mean that decorating one’s bag is an inherently authentic practice. Like ballet flats, ribbons and “Brat” green, “trinkifying” is merely one of many micro-trends dominating this year’s fashion cycle. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with wanting to participate in a fun trend — but there is a difference between genuine engagement and overconsumption for the sake of staying up to date.
With major brands like Miu Miu, Celine, Loewe and even Hermès capitalizing on what claims to be a practice rooted in individualism, conscious consumption is necessary. It’s important that we examine our intent in “trinkifying.” Are we participating in honest personalization or dropping hundreds of dollars on a keychain as another means of asserting status?
Genuinely developing one’s personal style is a continuous process that takes both time and consideration. Bag charms are an opportunity to supplement and explore your fashion while embracing authenticity. At their core, bag charms are meant to be a personal and light-hearted way to enrich an everyday accessory. In order to stay true to that, it’s important to ask what can heighten your style and act accordingly.
If you’re looking to brighten up your bag, I suggest making use of what you already have. Try repurposing an old necklace, tying on some spare ribbon, or even reclaiming some childhood keychains. Take advantage of the opportunity to be more sincere with your fashion. Think about the items that bring you joy or reflect your identity, and incorporate them into your bag decor.