Published: February 16, 2011

Despite the diverse dining options surrounding the Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) campus, with Hell’s Kitchen restaurants ranging from Italian, Chinese, Mexican, Thai and Indian, eateries featuring authentic Southern cooking are strangely scarce.

So during these blizzard-ridden weeks, in search of some comfort food, I recently traveled uptown with my two roommates to a well-known soul food restaurant right off Malcolm X Blvd. on 116th St. in Harlem. Established in 1998, Amy Ruth’s was named after the owner’s grandmother who taught him how to cook as a child during summer visits to his grandparents’ home in Alabama.

While Amy Ruth’s is a bit out of the way for FCLC students, the good old-fashioned home-style cooking is a pleasant digression from the usual fare on Ninth Ave. and well worth the subway ride uptown.

Upon entering the unassuming restaurant, we were met by framed photographs of Louis Armstrong, Miles Davis and other jazz and blues greats. Our waiter was friendly and brought our food within five minutes of us ordering. The dishes, which each carry the name of a famous African-American personality, were either prepared ahead of time or the chefs at Amy Ruth’s operate at fast food speeds. Either way the food tasted fresh, was hot and the quick service was appreciated.

I have wanted to try chicken and waffles, named for the Rev. Al Sharpton at Amy Ruth’s ($9.75), for some time. But I was blindsided by how to apply the condiments to this signature menu item. When the waiter brought maple syrup and butter for the waffle and hot sauce for the fried chicken, he left me with no advice on the best way to use them. My first instinct was to avoid mixing hot sauce and syrup. And then I started wondering whether it was acceptable for me to eat the chicken with my hands.

After a few hesitant moments, I decided that if I wanted to get some light and fluffy waffle and some crispy chicken in each bite (and trust me, you do), it doesn’t really matter if the maple syrup, butter and hot sauce run together. I mean, you’re eating fried chicken and waffles and, even though you are dining out, few are going to judge how you eat the filling home-style cuisine. The plate-sized waffle, a criss-cross of doughy deliciousness, and the sizable pieces of fried chicken, a wing and breast that left me unsure whether the white meat or crispy exterior was tastier, were worth the trip alone.

Between my friends and I, we sampled “the Ludacris,” four fried chicken wings ($12.25), best doused with hot sauce, and a number of side dishes, $4.50 a la carte or two included with any entrée. The side of baked macaroni and cheese was heavy and comforting like Southern cooking should be. The cabbage and collard greens were both simple and lightly seasoned, most likely how the leafy vegetables were traditionally prepared by Grandma Amy Ruth; however, I’d prefer more zest. The cheesy grits, according to my friend who had tasted Southern-style grits before, were subpar, with pre-shredded cheese. These may have even been Instant Grits, something “no self-respecting Southerner,” as one memorable eyewitness from “My Cousin Vinny” says, would cook, let alone consume.

Regardless of the hit-or-miss sides, I enjoyed my hearty meal. “Rev. Sharpton” didn’t allow room for dessert, but if I get the chance to dine at Amy Ruth’s again, I plan on trying “Neal Shoemaker’s” peach cobbler ($4.50).

If you’re looking to warm up, get full and aren’t counting calories, brave the next winter storm and take a trip to Amy Ruth’s. The comfort food and comfortable atmosphere will not disappoint. And it’s probably the only place you can see “President Barack Obama” (fried, smothered, baked or barbeque chicken, $13.25), “Al Roker” (beef short ribs, $16.25) and “Afrika Bambaataa” (fried whiting, $12.25) at the same table.