Published: April 1, 2010

The swinging rhythm of a Dixieland jazz band, the muted lighting and the colorful décor, a framed poster of legendary blues guitarist Robert Johnson, pennants embossed with the New Orleans Saints’ logo and most importantly, the mouth-watering Cajun-style cooking all set the mood at the Delta Grill.

Although I’ve never visited New Orleans during Mardi Gras, I got a taste of the Creole festivities and Cajun cuisine a few weeks ago at Delta Grill in Hell’s Kitchen. Inside the bayou-themed restaurant located at the corner of Ninth Avenue and W. 48th St., the long bar is stocked with a wide selection of liquors and a dozen different beers on tap. The variety of specialty drinks on the menu and the abundant seating at the bar completes the never-ending Mardi Gras motif, although without the beads. Banners of purple, green and gold, multi-colored lights strung from the ceiling and a real tin roof jutting from an interior wall create the illusion of dining on the back porch of a Deep South restaurant or hotel. Delta Grill is an enjoyable eatery, catering to those looking for a good meal or just a place to meet friends for drinks.

At around 10:30 p.m., when my date and I got to Delta Grill for a late Friday-night dinner, the music of four-piece Dixieland jazz band “Who’s Your Crawdaddy?” filled the homey restaurant. Patrons applauded as the band finished an upbeat ditty and the hostess showed us to a table by the bar. The snappy music made for an entertaining atmosphere, although carrying on a conversation was a slight challenge. Once the band took a break after about an hour of playing, the bluesy house tunes came on, encouraging more intimate dialogue.

Regardless, I was content before the waitress brought the appetizer. Rather than staid and sometimes stale dinner rolls, the warm, doughy bread baked with bits of jalapeño peppers at Delta Grill didn’t even need butter. The corn bread muffins were equally warm and doughy, tasting as if they had been baked while the band warmed up. I had to silence the deep-rooted words of my mother, which rush to my mind whenever I reach toward the breadbasket, “Don’t fill up on the bread!”

Instead of the fried cheese grits ($7), which the menu describes as “smothered in chicken Creole,” or the alligator and smoked pork sausage ($10), of which I was afraid to ask the waitress if it actually consisted of amphibious meat, I chose an appetizer I believed would be a healthier option: the fried okra ($6). The fried vegetable is served with a Creole mustard dipping sauce, which tastes like a spicier, tangier honey mustard—one I wouldn’t mind putting on a hot dog, burger or sandwich of almost any kind. The pieces of fried okra have an internal texture lighter than mozzarella sticks but with the same crispy exterior.

I was impressed how quickly our entrées were brought out after the appetizer. The friendly waitress continuously made sure our meal was enjoyable and that she could not do anything more to improve our overall dining experience.

For the main course, I ordered a classic Cajun dish, the jambalaya ($17). Served with three fried chicken strips over seasoned rice mixed with smoked pork andouille sausage, it was the perfect level of spiciness, a solid kick without the need to ask the waitress to leave the water pitcher. The significant portion comes in a rather large cast iron kettle. (According to a friend, who has dined at Delta Grill on a few occasions, a double order of the macaroni and cheese side also comes in a miniature cauldron and the portion is more than enough for one person.) After a few pieces of the fresh, jalapeño-infused bread and the fried okra, I was forced to bring half of my jambalaya home. The microwaved leftovers were just as good for lunch the next day.

Of the three vegetarian entrée options at Delta Grill, the spinach and ricotta ravioli ($14) was a mediocre dish, seemingly added to the menu to appease vegetarian diners. The other vegetarian choices, either the half-pineapple stuffed with stir-fried vegetables or the veggie wrap, with sautéed vegetables and an avocado sauce (both $14), may be more appetizing. Either that, or vegetarians can try the double helping of macaroni and cheese. Meat eaters need not worry about the menu selection, which includes a BBQ pulled pork sandwich ($10), the Big Bayou burger ($10) and BBQ St. Louis ribs ($18).

Now that it’s officially spring, take a walk a dozen blocks down Ninth Avenue from the Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) campus to Delta Grill. Since the menu is a little pricey but the portions are reasonable, order a few tasty appetizers or sides to share with friends, split a spicy entrée with a date, or get a Po’ Boy sandwich just for you. Classes may still be in session for over a month, but at Delta Grill, it’s Mardi Gras year-round. The band—check Delta Grill’s Web site for upcoming musical acts— goes on around 10:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Be sure to get a table while the music’s still playing.